HubingerEtmissl | Austria

  • added: Jul 12 2010
  • author: foodsketches
  • comments:
Editor's choiceHidden jewel
Our eye was stroke by the nice summer terrace with pure white linen tablecloths and nice crystals on the tables. The second thing you notice are the waiters who are dressed in simple, yet very elegant uniform.

If you have not started exploring your local neighbourhood, we recommend you do so. Some of the most unbelievable discoveries are found where we least expect those! Hubinger, Styrian Landhotel Restaurant, is a great testament to this. It is located amidst the mountain valleys of Styria where population of each village may not exceed 500 people. Moreover, at first it looked like the only restaurant in the area and certainly did not resemble any of the common local eating places.

Our eye was stroke by the nice summer terrace with pure white linen tablecloths and nice crystals on the tables. The second thing you notice are the waiters who are dressed in simple, yet very elegant uniform. And this is in the middle of nowhere, amongst the farms with deer, cows and other interesting livestock! Once you are brought a menu, your astonishment only increases. The menu contains special degustation menu of the day; you can as well try a few local simple dishes, however, with the chef’s twist and then you can opt for a choice of seasonal produce. As we visited the place in early July, the menu was full of interesting variations with chanterelle mushrooms, lots of fresh vegetables, fresh fruit that came either as a garnish or in a sauce, or in a dessert.  There was a significant choice of game that was grown on the nearby farms.

As a small amuse bouche we got freshly baked bread with various home-made spreads. The spreads came decorated with herbs and flowers from the restaurant’s garden (on occasion one of the kitchen’ personnel was popping outside to cut some fresh herbs for the dishes).  After this small snack our appetite was growing. Salads came shortly after: one of us had a salad with sautéed chantrelles, thinly sliced smoked wild boar ham and salad leaves in pumpkin seed oil; the other chose small pieces of freshly grilled lamb with the parfait of white tomato accompanied by nicely arranged guacamole with pine nuts. Both dishes were delicious and presentation was marvellous. We kept wondering how such a place could evolve in such a location. And I forgot to mention that when we came into the restaurant we took the last table on the terrace; everything else was already reserved! For the main course both of us went for young female deer fillet in a cherry sauce with seasonal vegetables and finger-shaped potato dumplings. Meat came out very tender and pairing with the sweet cherry sauce was an irresistible combination. The only thing we would change in the dish was the variety of garnish; we would limit it to vegetables or potatoes rather than mixing different ingredients in one plate. Dessert menu was full of mouth-watering suggestions. A local apricot cake made of ripe, this season’ fruit; red current cake; mousse of dark and white chocolate served with curd cheese; selection of local cheeses and a parfait made of young pine sprigs accompanies by fresh seasonal berries. We were so intrigued by the parfait, especially what it was made of, that we ordered this dessert. Not only we were not disappointed, but this became a highlight of our evening. This parfait resembled Italian semifreddo consistency-wise; had a delicate aroma of fresh pine forest; and in combination with fresh raspberries, blackberries and strawberries slightly covered in fruit juice with sugar, this was a divine delicacy.

That evening both of us agreed to spend more time discovering the surroundings and be more open-minded about any detours and “mapless” routes that we may  set our course on...

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